A Moving Stillness

10 Jul, 2011

Mountains– the grandeur of earth’s history bent, boiled, and sliced before eyes whose blink does not register on their geologic clock. Your aesthetic comfort demands physical discomfort and challenge. I am humbled by your presence and strengthened by your company.

Mt. Shasta doing its Kilimanjaro impression.

I set off into the mountains from Red Bluff with a plan. That plan had to change. The change made for an adventure beyond my expectations.

Nice little shady arch for a rest stop en route to Red Bluff.

Thaddeus' first fully-loaded offroad water crossing.

The ride from Red Bluff to Mineral was supposed to be my warm up to the mountains. Turns out it was the hardest day of the trip so far. 54 miles with 4,700 feet of elevation gain in dry heat in the mid-90’s. I nearly passed out from heat exhaustion twice. I started out on one road, and ended up having to turn around when it turned from gravel to impassable stones. Not a great way to start out. Whenever I’d stop, horseflies ate me alive. The first time I nearly passed out, I happened to get my first flat tire right next to the only creek during the ride! I left the ailing bike and made my way down to the stream to jump in with all of my clothes on. After a lunch and thorough soaking, I fixed the bike and set off UP the road. Within 15 minutes, my soaking clothes were completely dry again. 12 miles of climbing later, I was sprawled out on the side of the road resting in such a desperate looking pose that a stranger stopped to see if I wanted any Potassium. He said he’d nearly died twice from lack of that mineral. I accepted graciously. I eventually arrived to the town of Mineral after some cursing of inclines and general groaning. Got a feast at the closing restaurant lodge and slept hard and well.

Not encouraging.

Creek that might have saved my life.

Well-timed flat tire.

This is the guy who provided the Potassium. He said he'd actually died in an emergency road from lack of it. Another time, he endured hallucinations while he waited for a small dose to take effect. Definitely a character. Always nice to have someone check and make sure you aren't dying. when you're sprawled out on the side of the road. His odd presence was enough to shake me out of my exhaustion and back onto the road. Thanks to Chris Belnap for providing the real life-saving ingredients that day! The GU and hydration mixes came in very handy.

When I got up the next day in Mineral, it turned out that all roads north were blocked by the unusually high snow levels. After considering many different options–including backtracking the hellish ride from the day before and doing it a again 40 miles north, I ended up biking east to Susanville to head up the eastern side of the Sierras. It was great advice from a ranger, and it made for a string of great encounters.

Thaddeus and Mt. Lassen. We were supposed to pass the volcano much closer, but this was a nice view. Mountains and streams-- great!

Skipped a busy road and a higher pass by taking this great little side road over Mineral Pass. Thanks to the ranger who suggested this route!

Came across this outdoor town hall city council meeting in Mill Creek. Great scene! It was deep in the middle of the woods with very few houses. This is probably a once a year scene. Glad I passed by when I did. Lots of inquisitive and friendly folks who were more interested in my bike than the meeting.

More mountains and streams!

Mountain meadow cattle drive.

Love those big trees.

I biked 83 miles from Mineral to Susanville via the Bizz Johnson trail. As I mentioned in my previous post, I met Dave the cycling climate expert in Chester near Lake Alminor, which was an incredible stroke of luck. Funny how even a quick food stop can turn into an education. Always more to the story: warm pies, fresh fruit, a few dogs, other bike tourists, and 4th of July lake traffic. We’ll have to tell it all later.

Eventually, I made it to the Bizz Johnson trail just outside of Westwood. This is a classic cycling adventure. The trail is an old railroad track with tracks removed. Most of the way, it winds along the Susan River with terrific views of mountains, meadows, and the like. It even has some tunnels and plenty of bridges. It’s mostly a gentle downhill ride from Westwood. If you’re in the area, I’d definitely check it out. They’re talking about expanding it to go from Chester to Tahoe. Here’s hoping that happens.

If you don't know the sweet smell of these big trees, I suggest you seek it out.

I spent the night near Susanville at a place called Hobo Camp. Seemed appropriate. Although camping there is not to the taste of the rangers, it is welcome along most of the Bizz Johnson trail. I left my Hobo Camp and set off for the Community Evangelical Church that morning.

After exploring the whole Bizz Johnson (really? Johnson, Bizz?) and the church, I left Susanville and set off for Eagle Lake.

On the way to Eagle Lake, I came across this eagle perched on a powerline. When I stopped to watch it from directly below, it flew away and was chased by a migrating blackbird, which provoked a classic cry from the raptor. More impressive than this shot I was not prepared to take.